Fabrication of TrailEyes Game Camera Radar Assy PW

Let us start with the TrailEyes Game Camera Radar Assy PW Detector Transmitter:

The TrailEyes™ HuntingRadar™ transmitter is the basic sensor for use with many other devices. To follow you will need the bill of material and wiring diagram for reference. Just print them out.

Game Camera Radar Bill of Materials,

Upload Hunting Radar Wiring Diagram

You will need Adobe Reader to open this file. If you do not have Adobe Reader get it free here. As you can tell from the bill of materials to build the unit you need two on/off switches, a 12v relay, a rectifier diode, a 9 volt battery powered passive infrared motion detector (PIR), a long range radio frequency (RF) transmitter, and a handy box from Radio Shack or elsewhere to mount your game camera radar assy PW in and/or on. Lastly you will need some single conductor #22 AWG in Red, Black, white and Green and some rosin core solder. Small rolls of this wire are available at any electronic retailer or shop. I would stay with #22 AWG or smaller as the loads will be small and the smaller the wire the easier to manipulate and least room required.

Depending on how many locations you will want to monitor, you will need one set of the above for each remote Trail-Eyes™ game camera radar assy PW you want to make. I would suggest you go ahead and make four – one to drive each of the four output relays in the receiver. This way even if you have only one trail you can set out two hunting radar units spaced a ways apart to tell you which direction the traffic is traveling, i.e. the target will trigger one then another. Also you will have extra game camera radar assy PW units to give to others on your party to help find downed wounded deer in heavy brush day or night if your blood trail disappears.

The The game camera radar assy PW transmitter can be converted to dual use as a Camping Radar™ transmitter by adding an accessory jack and wiring it to the second set of relay contacts.

Hunting Radar™ Passive Infrared Motion Detector (PIR)

I used a Texecom Medusa Model Passive Infrared Detector as a trigger for game camera radar assy PW's long range radio frequency (R.F.) transmitter. Other common brands are the, Rocknet Model RK-300, Radio Shack or x-10 wireless they will be interchangeable and there are others that could be modifiable to operate the same way. I also chose a LINX RF transmitter/receiver system for several reasons. One is simplification, longer range than standard garage door opener systems that could be used and the fact that they are pre-approved by the FCC. This approval might keep someone from complaining that you are messing up their radio or TV reception.

The LINX receiver comes with a four channel receiver thus the reason for a minimum of four game camera radar assy PW trail sensors. The sensor transmitters are long range battery powered 433MHz transmitters which transmit a continuous radio frequency signal when triggered. They have eight buttons each, four marked off and four marked on. We will only be using one “ON” button for each of the transmitters being modified. Actually the button itself will not be used, only the solder pads to which it is connected. If you plan to use four a different button will be used for each one.

Prior to wiring you might want to paint the PIR case and the electrical project box whatever color you desire. I used a flat camo-green color but even a flat black or brown would be better than a white case shining by the hunting trail. Be sure to mask the wireless motion detector lens or remove everything from the case before painting. Be sure that when removing the PC board you do not touch the electronic chips which can be damaged by static discharge.

After the paint dries the PIR case and electronics project box need to be attached back to back. Silicone construction sealant can be used to assure weather resistance. Since the three wires connecting the PIR detector and other components will have to pass from inside the project box through the back, a hole will have to be drilled through both cases inside the sealed area. Take care when drilling the hole, making sure it will allow the wires to be routed to the PIR terminals after the printed circuit board is back in place.

Open the transmitter case and remove the battery. To open the case you will have to remove the screw in the back. Once open do not touch the electronic chip terminals as they can be damaged by static build up on your body. If it looks like I may have a problem with this, I strip off pieces of blue masking tape and cover everything I am not modifying. The tape can also be used to hold the parts in position for soldering and is easily removed.

To modify the transmitter we want to cut two 4” long pieces of the black #22 wire If you are making more than one motion detector hunting radar transmitter you will want to use a different button for each of the three successive game camera radar assy PW remotes for indication or four or five if you want to make remote trail cameras. Strip the insulation from both ends of the wire, exposing about 3/6” of copper. If you do not know how to make an electrical solder connection see: How to Solder Electrical Wires

Locate the row of solder pads on the PC board. On the drawing they are numbered 1 - 9 starting from the end nearest the antenna base. Pad 1 is the (-) or common terminal - common to all switches - solder a wire to it, taking care not to make a solder bridge between it and Pad 2. Solder the second wire to Pad 2. This unit will be unit #1. Perform the same operation on all transmitters you are going to make. Unit #2 will utilize the common pad 1 and pad 4, #3 pad 1 and pad 6 and lastly #4 pad 1 and pad 8.

Solder the other end of wire from pad 1 to one of the 12V relay terminals marked (NC) – this stands for normally closed contact. If you use the relay model shown in the bill of material this terminal will also be marked with the number 6. The other end of the common wire you soldered to pad 1 will be routed through the hole and terminate on screw terminal marked (-), (com), (0v) or maybe it will be white in color, depending on the PIR motion detector you use. This can wait until later as two other wires will also terminate on the same terminal block.

To assemble power for the Hunting Radar a 9 volt battery connector positive terminal (+) red wire needs to be soldered to the on off switch. The switches shown on the drawing are single pole single throw type, this means they are either on or off. You may end up with a double pole double throw switch which has too contacts inside. In this case you will see three terminals, solder the (+) red wire to the center terminal.

Cut and strip another 4” piece of red wire and solder one end to the other switch terminal. This wire will also later be routed through the hole to the (+ 12v), (pwr.), (+) or Red terminal as is on your unit. Do not worry that the terminal says 12v as it will also run on 9v the same as everything else in game camera radar assy PW.

Cut and strip ends of three more pieces of black wire. Solder one to the relay contact marked (C) – in this case 4 also.

The next operation might be a little tricky. You will need to solder the other two wires to the relay coil terminals along with the diode. The easiest way to do this is to strip back enough insulation to allow twisting the wire and the diode wire together and solder both to the terminal at the same time. You will notice that the diode has a stripe near one end. This is the end which has to solder to the relay coil negative (-) terminal. Attach the other end to the (+) terminal.

The Texicom or Rocknet walk test LED is visible in the detector window and it blinks on and off while the unit is transmitting. You will want to place another cutoff switch in it’s circuit so that it can be turned on during testing and set-up but disabled when put into operation especially in low light security applications. Disconnect desolder the LED wiring from the board and insert wires and a switch (S2) as shown. So that the unit can be used to search for downed animals make the wires long enough to extend from the LED solder points (tag wires and keep polarity position on board relative to LED legs the same) through the back with some slack. Mount the switch S2 and connect wiring to the LED. Drill a small hole in the side or top of the handy box to mount the LED in. Make it just large enough to stick the LED nose through and epoxy it in place. This way when searching the user will see the light go on on the hunting radar unit itself when the transmitter is triggered even if the searcher is not the one with the Game Pager ^TM. This will allow all game camera radar assy PW units to be used for searching at the same time.

Now you can route the four loose wires through the hole from the project box to the PIR terminal strip terminate the three negative (common) wires under the 0V screw. Route the Red (+) battery wire to terminal (+) or 12vm. Make a jumper from a loop of red wire and terminate with the battery (+) (Red) wire above. Loop the other end of the jumper to the common contact screw terminal, in this case (B). The last wire, from the (+) relay coil pin, is terminated on terminal (A).

Next a little clean up work, put the transmitter button battery back in place and notch the back of the transmitter cover to allow putting it back in place. Take some electrical tape and wrap the relay terminals so nothing can short them out. I would do the same for the switch terminals.

Take time to do a little layout work. Drill the holes for the switches and the transmitter antenna. Drill holes for the switches and antenna on the side or bottom. This will protect them from any falling rain. A little silicone sealant will further help.

To camouflage the game camera radar assy PW lens I cut covers out of a camo-mosquito net. Wrap the lens and pop it back into place. Run a small bead of silicone around the lens edge to seal it. Plenty of open space is left for the infrared light to shine through and trigger the unit.

Silicone can be used to ruggedize the unit by using it to glue the relay and wires into place. Place the relay and transmitter in the bottom of the box so the battery will be accessible, a thin foam sheet between everything will be protective (if there is room).

Most motion detectors have several sensitivity settings. For most assured detection use the fastest setting.

Sometimes there is a mounting height setting also. Set this also before putting the cover back into place and sealing. If the area is traveled by others I mount my hunting radar transmitters as high as possible, about 6 feet.

Depending on the obstructions between the hunter and the game camera radar assy PW the transmitter internal antenna will work for about a 300ft separation.

Side Note:

A large Radio Shack project box can be used to house the hunter radar transmitter, antenna and all, the 9v battery, relay and to mount the two switches. RF will transmit through the plastic box as if it were not there. If a metal box is preferred for security, drill a hole and insert the antenna through it. A good mounting start would be to place the box and PIR motion detector back cover back to back. Center them and position the PIR detector toward the bottom of the box. Use a thick epoxy paste or silicone construction sealant to bond them together. After the adhesive has set up, drill a couple of ½” holes in the back of the box and through the back of the detector. The best location for the holes will be one either side of the PIR close to the terminal board. By putting the holes on the side, passing wiring between the PIR and box will be much easier. Electrical loads will be very small so when buying wire get 22 or 24 Gage, stranded if possible its flexibility and smaller diameter will help even more. If box size is no problem and metal enclosure of everything is desired trim a hole in the box the same size and shape of the PIR motion sensor window. The unit can be placed in the window and epoxied or siliconed to seal it to the box interior wall.

The hardest part of the whole fabricating process is positioning the components and doing the soldering. As a caution, be sure and place the 9v battery where it will be accessible for replacement when taking the project box lid off. Remove the pocket clip from the transmitter back and this will give an extra ¼”.

Waterproofing

To make your unit more waterproof silicone construction sealant can be used to seal the lens in the PIR and it might be desirable to get water proof boots for your switches. Another hedge against water is to mount switches on the side or bottom not top of the unit. A good temporary water proofer for TrailEyes game camera radar assy PW is a large Zip Lock Freezer bag. The operation will not be affected.

A word about Lenses.

Most motion detectors can be ordered with different types of lenses.

The Volumetric Lens: Some of them must be mounted very high, five to seven feet, these are made for rooms to cover the greatest volume.

Pet Exclusion Lens: For areas where there are no trees or very short brush for mounting the game camera radar assy PW an ideal lens is the pet exclusion type. It is good because it covers an area straight out in front of the lens and has a flat profile. Units with a pet lens can be set at whatever level you want to cover. For deer or humans a mounting height of about 3 ft for the game camera will work well. If you turn the lens on its side your detection area will be a thin tall window. If this is anticipated mount your switches on the side of the unit to protect from falling water.

Long Range Lens: Most long range lenses are designed to be mounted 6’-7” above the ground however; it is the most versatile lens because if the unit is turned upside down it may be mounted at lower heights. This allows using on short trees or posts. If tall trees are available turn hunting radar back over and mount it higher.

Another consideration as to which mounting to use is the lay of the land. Remember radio waves travel in straight lines so if you are in a hilly situation, the higher you mount your TrailEyes™ Hunting Radar the longer the range of operation between monitor and receiver will be.

TrailEyes Hunting Radar Trail Monitor Field Set-Up

Preparing the game camera radar assy PW detector for mounting can easily be done by applying hook and loop fasteners (Velcro®) to the box and the matching side to a strap for looping around the tree, post, pin or whatever. When choosing a hook and loop fastener try to find the type made from polyester as they are more water resistant than nylon which weaken when wet. 3M Scotch-mate® is another brand of hook and loop they have a polyester grade with rubber cement which sticks to almost any surface. To assure that the hook or loop tape does not come off the Trail Monitor in use is to back up its attachment with screws or rivets.

After mounting the hunting radar in the field an operation check is easy.

1. Turn the power switch (S1) and the walk test, switch (S2) on then back away from the front of the lens for a couple of minutes to allow the unit to warm up.

2. After warm-up walk in front of the hunting radar unit at whatever distance you want to cover. Watch for the led to start blinking. When it starts blinking you have been detected and hunting radar radio should also be transmitting.

3. Keep walking until out of range and stay out of range for at least five seconds before walking back by at some farther or closer distance.

4. Once you are happy with the detection pattern, turn the walk test switch off.

5. You are now ready to set your next detector or remote camera.

The TrailEyes Hunting Radar is used to trigger the Hunters Game Pager.

Other PIR Options

· If you are electronics savy and you want to save a little money but do a little more work you can pick up a two lamp, motion sensor activated outdoor lamp at Home Depot, Lowe’s or Wal-Mart for under $12 and convert it. This conversion can be found at Jesse’s Hunting and Outdoors. His site shows a conversion is intended to trip a camera but if you run wires from the On/Off switch (+) to his (Regent MS20C) terminal #4 then run a wire from his relay terminal #2 to the (+) transmitter battery terminal you will get the same operation. This will eliminate your having to get a Texicom or Rocknet PIR unit. Some people have found the conversion less than satisfactory as a relay must be replaced on the printed circuit board to make the.

Next you will build the four channel shirt pocket worn Game Pager. 4 Ch. Hunter Game Pager Maybe you are interested in the Local or Remote Game Trail Scouting Wildlife Photography Camera Trigger Option which is operated by the game camera radar assy PW. Make Your Own Camera Triggers The Wildlife Game Camera trigger can also be initiated by an extra hand held push button unit programmed also to the game gamera trigger receiver.

This way the photographer sets up the game camera to the position he wants it and hides in the bush or blind then determines when he wants to take the picture not the game camera radar assy PW itself. In fact if this is the waw it is to be used there is no reason to mane the game camera radar assy PW.